Country 8: Armenia: Jingalov Hats and Spas

I'm not sure what it was about Armenia but I was really excited to cook this meal. I know very little about the country, and everything that I do know is pretty much because one of my favourite travel bloggers, Eva zu Beck, spent some time there (she's great and I recommend you check her out!).

I would love to go to Armenia. I think the countries in the Caucasus region have so much to offer, and certainly working in the travel industry I can see that the tourism in these countries has lbeen picking up. I'd like to get there before tourism completely dominates that part of the world, to try and keep the authenticity and local feeling that exists. Maybe on the other side of coronavirus I'll make it, but in the meantime, I've travelled there in my kitchen and for now that will have to be good enough.

Today on the menu we have:

  • Spas, a traditional Armenian yogurt-based soup
  • Jingalov hats, flatbreads stuffed with herbs and vegetables



Spas

This was by far the most unusual dish I think I've cooked so far in this project. Yogurt soup. Yogurt soup?! This is considered to be comfort food in Armenia and I was intrigued. You add an egg to stop the yogurt from curdling, and the recipe I followed included yogurt and sour cream. Another main ingredient is wheat berries, but I used pre-cooked leftover rice instead which is an alternative that is suggested.

Mixing the ingredients together

It was truly awful. My partner and I couldn't get through a whole bowl of it without giggling about how bad it was. We ended up tipping the liquid out, rinsing the rice and cooking something else with it because neither of us could stomach the spas. After my excitement of cooking Armenian food, this was a tragedy. I am not supplying the recipe because I can't bear the thought of someone else eating it on my recommendation. If you're interested, there are plenty of recipes online that you can follow.




There must be something that I am missing with this dish. It was described as silky and smooth and the ultimate comfort food. Maybe I used the wrong type of yogurt, or added too much water. I think if I went to Armenia then I would be tempted to try it again, because I must have done something wrong. But I will certainly not be making it again.


Jingalov Hats

In contrast to the spas, I was delighted with my second dish I chose to cook: jingalov hats. These are typically consumed around Lent. I've never participated in Lent, as far as I know, so I was curious to find out what this actually meant. Lent is the 40 days before Easter in the Christian calendar, where Christians replicate the sacrifice of Christ. In early centuries, meat, fish, eggs and butter were given up (essentially eating a vegan diet), and participants ate only one meal a day. In more modern times, I know that some people give up their favourite vice - perhaps coffee, or chocolate. In the Christian church, Lent is a time to reflect on Christ's sacrifice. The more you know!

Letting the dough rest

Herb and spinach mix coming together

Adding the paprika

Additionally, the variety of herbs that encompasses jingalov hats is a reminder of springtime. I read somewhere that some recipes can include 20 herb varieties, or sometimes even up to 40. I don't think I can even name 40 different types of herbs, so it seems a bit much to me! The bulk of the greenery is made up of mostly tasteless greens, like spinach or chard. The more I looked into different recipes though, the more it seemed like you can just basically throw whatever you liked into it. The most important part is the herbs: you want coriander and mint, or something called sorrel which I've never heard of.

I used spinach as my main bulk green, as well as a cup of coriander, a cup of mint, some parsley, basil, and rosemary... One of my hobbies I've picked up in coronavirus isolation (which I have wanted to do for a long time) is start a herb garden, so I was excited to be using some of my own home grown greens!


Pinching the pastry together

Deflated rugby balls

At the beginning of this project, making dough was one of my least favourite things to do. Actually, there have definitely been some recipes where I have found the pastry to be the most tedious part (I'm thinking of my Argentinian empanadas yesterday as one example!). For my jingalov hats, however, it was pleasant, if not fun. I feel like I lost myself in it, which is pretty much ideal.

They turned out excellent. The dough was crispy and chewy, and the herbs and spinach combo tasted like spring. The lemon juice and paprika brought out a sharpness to the flavours, and we both agreed that the hats were sublime. Possibly one of my best dishes I've made so far. And in contrast to the spas... well there's no competition.

By far, these were the best part of the meal. And they were easy! I'll make these again for sure.





Jingalov Hats
Makes 4 loaves

Ingredients

For the dough

  • 1.5 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2/3 cup lukewarm water
  • Sunflower oil, for greasing
For the herb filling
  • 4 packed cups of baby spinach (or other leafy greens such as chard, lettuce, mustard greens, etc. I would not recommend kale)
  • 1.5 cups coriander
  • 1.5 cups mint
  • 1/2 cup basil
  • 1/2 cup flat leaf parsley
  • 4 spring onions, sliced
  • 3 tablespoons sunflower oil
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons paprika
  • 2 teaspoons salt
Instructions

  1. Prepare the dough: pour the water into a medium sized bowl then sift the flour and salt into it. Use your hands to mix everything together gradually. The dough will be sticky.
  2. Turn the dough onto a floured counter, and knead gently until the surface becomes smooth and the dough stops sticking to your hands and counter. This takes about 5 minutes. Roll the dough into a ball and place into a lightly oiled bowl. Turn to coat, cover with a tea towel and rest in room temperature for 45 minutes.
  3. Wash the greens and use a salad spinner (if available) to dry them well. Chop everything finely, and place in a bowl. Add spring onions, paprika, lemon juice and salt. Set aside.
  4. Divide the rested dough into 4 portions and form each into a ball. On a floured surface, roll a ball into a thin circle, about 8 inches wide. You may add more flour if need be, to prevent it from sticking. 
  5. Take about 2 cups of greens and place into the centre of the circle and use your hands to pat it down, leaving about a 1-inch border around the circumference of the dough. Pick up two opposite sides of the dough and pinch them together over the centre of the filling from top to bottom (see my photo above). The middle will be wide while the top and bottom will be more narrow, like a boat. 
  6. Ensure the seam is sealed by pinching firmly, then turn over the loaf and gently flatten it with the palm of your hand. Seal any holes in the dough and set aside on a lightly floured surface. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough. 
  7. Heat a large pan over medium high and lightly oil. Working with one dough portion at a time, place seam-side down in the centre of the pan. Lower heat to medium and cook for about 3 minutes, until the cooked and lightly brown. Flip and cook the other side for 2 minutes. 
  8. Repeat for the rest of the dough, and serve warm or at room temperature with a glass of red wine. 

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